Aug 28, 2009 Here we are, one month on in Zimbabwe and our family has had to endure the loss of our beloved pet, Beau. The details of his passing are unimportant, he is in a better place, without pain or fear, having known love and care. We are left behind to try to understand why and to grieve. It is amazing how quickly our pets become a part of our families, such an integral part of our very lives. We all miss him very much.
One month on I find the beauty and awe undiminished in this fascinating country. The kids are in school, I have returned to work and our daily routine is well on its way to being set. Exploration has been incorporated into weekend shopping excursions. Thankfully there is plenty to be had here, for those with dollars anyway. In the place of the excitement of exploring this new place we call home, has been reflection of what we have seen and learned so far. We are still newcomers with much to learn and experience, but some of it is starting to come into focus. As with everyplace, Zimbabwe has a long and varied history that, as with all histories, has shaped who and what the people, the government and even the landscape of this country are today.
We have not been outside the city too much, only short trips to Lion and Cheetah park, about 30 minutes outside of Harare on the road to Bulawayo (2nd largest city in Zimbabwe) and 1.5 hours on the Mutare (city on the eastern edge of Zimbabwe) road to go to the Imire Safari Park. We are hoping to go up to Lake Kariba and Mana Pools in Oct and then to Victoria Falls, one of the wonder's of the world, when Jordan visits at Christmas time. With every trip, every encounter with people, plants and animals our impressions of this place are shaped.
Now remember, I am recording my observations and reflections as of one month on... over time, no doubt, these may be altered significantly to perhaps an unrecognizable state from how I record them at this time. But record them, I must. For those of you who know Africa and have a better grasp of what Africa is and how it came to be, please excuse my naive ramblings, but my head is filled with the contradictions, the divisiveness, the poverty, the waste and the beauty of this place and I need to record them for my own understanding.
Unfortunately, but as with many post colonial countries, this is a country divided and in this case no only by race, but by political party, wealth and even health. I imagine if we were transported back in time to our own country in the post colonial era we would find the King's supporters, those who did not leave America after the Independence War, a bitter lot with little positive to say about the "New World" they found themselves a part of. It is much the same here, many of the whites, often 3rd and 4th generations of folks, who have been in Zimbabwe and who fully consider themselves to be Africans, appear to be bitter and unhappy with the state of Zimbabwe. But, they continue on with their lives, committed to this place they call home, even when there isn't much of a welcome. The political parties, such as they are, divide folks into the Mugabe (the 85 year old leader of Zimbabwe who has been in power nearly 30 years) camp and those who are not, which also divides folks into wealth categories as those who are under the patronage of Mugabe tend to be more wealthy and have more opportunities, not always measured in cash, but in influence which can be translated into wealth. Health is another huge issue in Zimbabwe, large numbers, some estimates say as high as 40-60% of the population has HIV/AIDS, cholera, a very treatable water born disease, claimed thousands of lives last year and is poised and ready to do the same when the rainy season comes again in November. This country was once the model for Africa with its strong health care, education and transport systems, but after 30 years of misrule these once mighty institutions have broken down and are no longer functioning. The University of Zimbabwe, once one of the best universities on the continent has not opened its doors this term. The average life expectancy for a woman in Zimbabwe is 34 years old. The impact of that statistic alone is devastating.
The kids and I see it daily, the young children, girls maybe 10-12 years old with three or four younger children, at least one strapped to her back the others holding her hands, begging at street corners. Barefoot, barely clothed, these are the orphans left to fend for themselves when family is wracked by health issues and social services are non-existent. The kids and I see these poor children and have devised a plan to carry small amounts of food in the car that would could pass to them when we stop. These are the images that are changing Charlotte and Lucas' lives. Giving them a good view of just what they have and what is important.
All is not doom and gloom here in Southern Africa, spring is on its way with evidence seen everyday in the return of new and fantastic birds, blooming plants and warmer days and nights. Yesterday was glorious, and after an hour batting the tennis balls around on the court, the kids were almost ready to jump in the pool. It is still quite cold, and I doubt they would last long there but it was looking more inviting. Soon, an afternoon swim will join the list of our things to do.
So, one month on, things are starting to come into focus but we still have a way to go.
Love, Shannon
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